LABAN

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DOUBLE OVERHEAD

So I documented a little bit of last weeks south swell that hit us like the winter of 69. Well not really quite that big but in my eyes, those waves were THE heavies. Absolutely the biggest I’ve witnessed around here because it never really goes double overhead in the summertime here. It was absolutely punctual and right on time for the 2009 US Open of Surfing. Went to the competition and the beach was packed and reminiscent of the late 80’s early 90’s period. The event was HUGE in direct correlation with the waves. I burned my face from the sun but it was beyond doubt worth the footage I got. And may I point out that I got to observe a few hall of famers and distinguished surfers in the industry doing their thing on the best waves HB has seen since the 90s. Congratulations to Brett Simpson who got bumped up to 5th place on the ASP rankings after winning 100K purse for the whole Hurley US OPEN. Also Congrats to Courtney Conlogue, Kai Barger, and Malia Manuel (the future) for winning the rest. It was fun and I wrapped up what I could in this video and a few still photos of the event. It's all Love.

HURLEY US OPEN OF SURFING 2009 x SOMEGIANT x BTMxSHLF from good peoples on Vimeo.

Rob Machado had two body guards (blue shirts) after every heat

packed like there's no tomorrow

volcom stone in the place to be


boardwalk and from my vantage point

this is to show us how easy life is

RIP to the 50 yr old man whose life was claimed by (in the words of bruce brown) "the dirty, old, nasty, wedge." He was a warrior taking on those 20-25 ft faces.

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TAKE (ON) ME LITTERALLY

CHEER UP. It's the weekend jumpoff. See you all on the flipside.

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AFTER 1630

So we're at the beach after work everyday. One of our options for some sand activities (besides Port Hueneme/Ventura beaches) are a few beaches around Point Mugu (which is 10 minutes away from home). It's absolutely a gorgeous panoramic view (enough to make a anybody move here) and we just want to share a little bit of stills of our backyard (if you will). But don't take our words/pictures for it, come and visit Ventura county and look no more.

this is how I (stretch) get ready before I charge 8 foot waves.




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